Tuning Tips Guide

Tuning Tips in a Nutshell

• Ever hit a patch of snow and stick like glue? Like treads in a tire, structure (stone ground patterns) in your base enhance performance. Keep the base waxed and the structure open (unclogged) and water will be moved away efficiently and keep you flying; if not the suction effect of water will slow you down. A stone ground base should be waxed a couple of times (minimum!) before you take it on the snow.
• Brush off dirt with a brush and reserve this brush for dirt (metal, for example brass, preferred, a steel brush is agressive and should only be used by experienced tuners).
• Then do your edges. If you are using a multi-angle edge tool there is an image example of how to use it at the bottom of this page (for a complete equipment list see the links at the top of this page).
• Base Edge. The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to engage a turn on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. With a new pair of skis the non-race skier may wish to start with a 0.5 degree bevel, and if your edges are locking in to a turn too soon, you can move up to 0.75 or 1 degree. To go back to a lower bevel angle you have to resurface the base, so start with smaller angles. Once the base edge bevel is set, maintain (and racers should polish) it as long as possible using diamond, ceramic and gumi stones.
• Side Edge. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. Higher angles should be reserved for experienced racers; if the angle is too high the ski can 'rail out' on a less experienced racer or a petite woman or child . Typical angles are 1.0 to 3.0 degrees. Less angle equals less grip. Keep in mind that an aggressive edge (high angle), may be more difficult for lighter racers (young kids or women) may make it more difficult to recover from being up on the edge.
• If you don't know what angle your ski/board is set at before you start, mark the metal edge with a sharpie, start the tool at the lowest angle and see if it removes the marking on your edge. Raise the angle and repeat until it removes the mark.
• After you set your edge angles once, substitute a blue DMT or yellow Moonflex diamond stone for the file so you don't wear down your edges - the stone will sharpen without severe metal removal. Sharpen your edges on a weekly basis by using the diamond stone on your side edge only (unless there is damage). You don't need to use the file again unless you change the angle or have edge damage. To repair severe edge damage you may need a gray/black DMT or black Moonflex diamond stone.
• After doing the side edge run the gummi stone down the edge from tip to tail lightly with no pressure to remove hanging burrs left by files/stones.
• A 0.5 or 1 degree base angle and a 1 degree side edge bevel is a typical starting point. A 1/2 would be better for hard pack or icy conditions.
• I like to record the angle settings so I remember next time I tune; I usually write it in the under-the-foot area.
• For a detailed discussion on this with pictures see the links at the top of this page.
• Drip on cheap (the red/warm hydrocarbon we sell is perfect) hydrocarbon wax and scrape while hot to clean base and remove old wax (never use chemical cleaners) - the more you do this (after each or every other time you ride) the faster your ski/board will get because you are infusing more & more wax into the base. Repeat until the wax comes up clean.
• Then wax with the wax you intend to ski/board on. If you are using a fluoro speed wax, use it now, if just a hydrocarbon drip it on, iron and scrape. If using FluoroMax or other racewax.com fluoro waxes, you must rub it on (racewax fluoro waxes will not drip on) crayon on one layer, then with the iron in one hand soften the wax for 1 second and rub a slightly thicker coat on. Then iron.
• If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax.
• Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly, put it out in the cold now and it won't soak it up as well) Scrape off wax (this may take multiple passes). Sharp snow crystals will dig into wax and slow you down - you must get excess wax off.
• Brush off excess wax from the base (a nylon will be fine to open up the structure or pattern in your base, a horsehair brush is for polishing).
• This step is critical! You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board. This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax lubricates and protects the base. If you have too much wax it could add drag (to learn more read about waxes in the Wax Wizard link at the top of this page).
• If you are a non-racer, you are done.
• Repeat again with T-series or Hybrid wax, if desired, (including scraping & brushing)
• Then polish to a shine (use the polishing cloth or preferably an 18-mm horsehair brush)
• If you use powders, add now.
• Sprinkle an even layer of powder or microfiber overlay on the base.
• Spread it evenly with a cork (lightly). A synthetic cork generates more heat than a natural cork and is better for working overlays.
• Work the powder/fiber into the base with a cork in stages. Increase the pressure in each stage.
• In the latter stages, use sufficient pressure so as to generate heat.
• Use the horsehair brush lightly to work the overlay into the structure.
• Brush out excess fluoro and polish