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Tuning Kit Instructions

Ski and Snowboard Tuning Kit Instructions

The 2017 kit line (see below) was introduced in November 2016, click here to jump to the pre-2017 kit instructions.

2017 Kit Instructions:

Deluxe/Race/Complete/Podium Kits (below) | or jump to FreeRide/Carver Kit Instructions | Quick/EZ-Tune Kit Instructions
  • Edge Bevel Multi Tool with metal file (SKU RB-3503) for a precise edge angle from 0 degree to 5 degrees in 0.5 degree increments -- use to set/establish angles for boards and skis;
  • Blue DMT Diamond Stone -- use to routinely sharpen by placing in the edge tool instead of the file because frequent use of the file will wear down your edges;
  • All Temperature Ski Wax -- rated for all conditions;
  • Wax Scraper (long & short included) -- for scraping excess wax off you ski or board, one corner is notched to remove wax from the metal edges;
  • Metal Scraper -- to scrape/plane ptex dripped on to repair base gouges;
  • Gummi Stone -- a rubber block with embedded grit for edge rust removal, detuning, and burr removal;
  • File Cleaning Brush -- used to keep files free of metal waste;
  • Clear P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in colored areas of base;
  • Black P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in black areas of base;
  • One pair (two) plastic hook brake retainers -- holds ski brake during edge tuning (not needed for snowboards);
  • Brass Brush -- for renewing base structure, opening pores before you wax, and brushing hard waxes (optional, Race-Speed/Complete/Podium).
  • Nylon Brush -- the workhorse of wax removal. Designed to be stiff enough to remove wax in less passes to save you time.
  • Horsehair Brush -- for removing wax from the fine structure of your base (optional, Race-Speed/Complete/Podium).
Multi-Angle Ski and Snowboard Edge Tuner


ski base edge bevel ski side edge bevel

Deluxe/Race/Complete/Podium Kit Quick Start Instructions

  • Advanced tuners should refer to more expanded discussions in topic-specific sections of the Learning Center (e.g., Edge Tuning).
  • Apply brake retainers to hold brakes away from the work area. Snowboards do not have brakes.
  • First prepare your edges. Examine them for roughness or nicks; remove these imperfections with stones and files as needed.
  • If you don't know what angle your ski/board is set at before you start, mark the metal edge with a sharpie, start the tool at the lowest angle and see if it removes the marking on your edge. If not, increase the angle and repeat until it removes the mark; that is your bevel angle.
  • Base Edge. Mount the ski flat or at a comfortable angle if your vise permits. The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to engage a turn on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. Most base bevels are set to 1.0 degrees. With a new pair of skis the non-race skier may wish to start with a 0.5 degree bevel, and if your edges are locking in to a turn too soon, you can move up to 0.75 or 1 degree. To go back to a lower bevel angle you have to resurface the base, so start with smaller angles and increase as needed. Once the base edge bevel is set, maintain (and racers should polish) it as long as possible using diamond, ceramic and gummi stones.
  • General Rule #1: Base Edge - Set it and forget it. Do not overwork the base edge. If you increase it above the intended angle, the only way to reset the bevel back to a lower angle is to do a base grind. Any minor roughness can be removed with fine diamonds; avoid filing unless you are resetting the bevel angle.
  • Side Edge. Mount the ski vertically at 90 degrees. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. Higher angles should be reserved for experienced racers; if the angle is too high the ski can 'rail out' on a less experienced racer or light-weight skier. Typical angles are 1.0 to 3.0 (89 to 87) degrees. Less angle equals less grip. But an aggressive edge (high angle), may be more difficult for lighter racers to recover from being up on the edge. Most start at 89/1 degree and transition to 88/2 with skills. Advanced skiers, especially those skiing on icy hard-packed snow, should select an 87/3 degree side bevel.
  • After you set your edge angle bevels, substitute the blue DMT diamond stone for the file and go over the edges one more time to polish them. Read the section on Diamond Stone Care; the stone should be used wet.
    • You don't need to use the file again unless you change the angle or have edge damage. The diamond stone will sharpen without severe metal removal (consider adding a (70 mm) diamond stone in the 200 grit range if you feel you need a sharper edge). Sharpen your edges on a weekly basis by using the diamond stone on your side edge only. To repair severe edge damage you may need a gray DMT or black Moonflex diamond stone.
  • After setting the side edge run the gummi stone (grey rubber block with grit) down the edge (holding at a 45 degree angle) from tip to tail very lightly with no pressure to remove hanging burrs left by files/stones.
  • General Rule #2: Side Edge - Routine sharpening is achieved from the side edge only. As stated in Rule #1, don't touch the base edge unless it is necessary. Here as well, it is not necessary to repeatedly file your edges to sharpen, removing metal each time in the process. All it takes is 5 minutes to routinely sharpen with diamond stones followed by burr removal with a gummi stone and you're done. If at some point you feel to re-establish the edge, use a fine cut file.
  • I like to record the angle settings so I remember next time I tune; I usually write it in the under-the-foot area.
  • For a detailed discussion on this with pictures refer to Edge Tuning.
  • Now add wax!
  • Always start with the ski at room temperature; never start with a cold ski.
  • If you have one, use the brass brush to remove old wax/dirt from the base surface, renew structure and open pores for wax infusion (for this step brush in the opposite direction - tail to tip).
  • If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax. See the Wax Charts for a good starting point.
  • Wax each ski for about 3 minutes.
  • Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly is best, do not put skis in the cold). Scrape off wax with wax scraper (this may take multiple passes) and use the notch in the scraper to remove wax from the edges completely.
  • Brush off excess wax from the base (a nylon will be fine to remove most wax from the structure or pattern in your base, a horsehair brush (optional) is for polishing).
  • General Rule #3: You want wax in your base, not on your base.
  • You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board. This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax soaks into the base then bleeds out and lubricates to give speed and protect the base.
  • If you are adding a second wax coat of fluoro speed wax, repeat the waxing process, but use the crayon method to apply (read about this in Wax Application). Otherwise, you are done!
  • The metal scraper and clear/black ptex rods are for base repair. See Ptex Base Repair for instructions and video.
RaceWax FreeRide/Carver Kit Overview and Use
  • Pocket II Racing Base & Edge Beveler for 88/89 side and 1 degree base edge angles with metal file -- use to set angles for boards and skis;
  • All Temperature Ski Wax -- rated for all conditions;
  • Triangle Wax Scraper -- for scraping excess wax off you ski or board, one corner is notched to remove wax from edges;
  • Metal Scraper -- to scrape/plane ptex dripped on to repair base gouges;
  • Gummi Stone -- for edge rust removal, detuning, and burr removal;
  • File Cleaning Brush -- used to keep files free of metal waste;
  • Clear P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in colored areas of base;
  • Black P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in black areas of base;
  • One pair (two) brake retainers -- holds ski brake during edge tuning (not needed for snowboards);
  • Nylon Brush -- the workhorse of wax removal. Designed to be stiff enough to remove wax in less passes to save you time.

FreeRide/Carver Kit Quick Start Instructions

  • Advanced tuners should refer to more expanded discussions in topic-specific sections of the Learning Center (e.g., Edge Tuning).
  • Apply brake retainers to hold brakes away from the work area. Snowboards do not have brakes.
  • First prepare your edges. Examine them for roughness or nicks; remove these imperfections with stones and files as needed.
  • Base Edge. Mount the ski flat or at a comfortable angle if your vise permits. The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to engage a turn on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. Most base bevels are set to 1.0 degrees and this is the setting for the edge tool (Pocket-II (RB-3607)) in this kit.
  • General Rule #1: Base Edge - Set it and forget it. Do not overwork the base edge. If you increase it above the intended angle, the only way to reset the bevel back to a lower angle is to do a base grind. Any minor roughness can be removed with fine diamonds; avoid filing unless you are resetting the bevel angle.
  • Side Edge. Mount the ski vertically at 90 degrees. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. Most commonly, angles are 1.0 or 2.0 (89 or 88) degrees. Less angle equals less grip. Most start at 89/1 degree and transition to 88/2 with skills.
  • (optional) After you set your edge angle bevels, substitute a diamond stone for the file and go over the edges one more time to polish them; the stone should be used wet.
    • A diamond stone will sharpen without severe metal removal. Consider adding a (70 mm) diamond stone or two to sharpen your edges on a weekly basis; this can be accomplished from the side edge only. To repair severe edge damage you may need a gray DMT or black Moonflex diamond stone.
  • After setting the side edge, run the gummi stone (grey rubber block with grit) down the edge (holding at a 45 degree angle) from tip to tail very lightly with no pressure to remove hanging burrs left by files/stones.
  • General Rule #2: Side Edge - Routine sharpening is achieved from the side edge only. As stated in Rule #1, don't touch the base edge unless it is necessary. Here as well, it is not necessary to repeatedly file your edges to sharpen, removing metal each time in the process. All it takes is 5 minutes to routinely sharpen with diamond stones followed by burr removal with a gummi stone and you're done. If at some point you feel to re-establish the edge, use a fine cut file.
  • I like to record the angle settings so I remember next time I tune; I usually write it in the under-the-foot area.
  • For a detailed discussion on this with pictures refer to Edge Tuning.
  • Now add wax!
  • Always start with the ski at room temperature; never start with a cold ski.
  • If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax. See the Wax Charts for a good starting point.
  • Wax each ski for about 3 minutes.
  • Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly is best, do not put skis in the cold). Scrape off wax with wax scraper (this may take multiple passes) and use the notch in the scraper to remove wax from the edges completely.
  • Brush off excess wax from the base (a nylon will be fine to remove most wax from the structure or pattern in your base, a horsehair brush (optional) is for polishing).
  • General Rule #3: You want wax in your base, not on your base.
  • You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board. This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax soaks into the base then bleeds out and lubricates to give speed and protect the base.
  • If you are adding a second wax coat of fluoro speed wax, repeat the waxing process, but use the crayon method to apply (read about this in Wax Application). Otherwise, you are done!
  • The metal scraper and clear/black ptex rods are for base repair. See Ptex Base Repair for instructions and video.
RaceWax Quick/EZ-Tune Tuning Kit, Overview and Use
  • Edge Beveler for 88 / 90 side edge angles -- use to set/establish angles for boards and skis; the file for this tool is two-sided with a coarse double-cut side for establishing the edge and a single-cut side for fine cuts/sharpening.
  • All Temperature Wax -- rated for all conditions;
  • Triangle Wax Scraper -- for scraping excess wax off you ski or board, one corner is notched to remove wax from edges;
  • Metal Scraper -- to scrape/plane ptex dripped on to repair base gouges;
  • Clear P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in colored areas of base;
  • Black P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in black areas of base;
  • Brake Retainer -- holds ski brake during edge tuning (not needed for snowboards);
  • Non-abrasive Fibertex pad for buffing after scraping wax -- if you don't have a brush, this pad will do the job;

Quick/EZ-Tune Kit Quick Start Instructions

  • Apply brake retainers to hold brakes away from the work area. Snowboards do not have brakes.
  • First prepare your edges.
  • Base Edge. Mount the ski flat. Examine the base edge for roughness or nicks; consider buying a gummi or diamond stone to remove these imperfections by hand. A 320 (or greater) grit aluminum oxide sandpaper
  • General Rule #1: Base Edge - Set it and forget it. Any minor roughness can be removed with a stone; avoid filing.
  • Side Edge. Mount the ski vertically at 90 degrees. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. The most common angle is 2.0 (or 88) degrees. Less angle equals less grip. We recommend the 88 over the 90 degrees for this reason.
  • General Rule #2: Side Edge - Routine sharpening is achieved from the side edge only.
  • Select the file side with a coarse double-cut side for establishing the edge and a single-cut side for fine cuts/sharpening.
  • Sharpen the side edge.
  • (very) Lightly go over the base edge flush/flat against the base edge with a gummi, 320/400 grit sandpaper, or fine diamond stone to remove any burrs.
  • Now add wax!
  • Always start with the ski at room temperature; never start with a cold ski.
  • If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax. See the Wax Charts for a good starting point.
  • Wax each ski for about 3 minutes.
  • Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly is best, do not put skis in the cold). Scrape off wax with wax scraper (this may take multiple passes) and use the notch in the scraper to remove wax from the edges completely.
  • Brush off excess wax from the base with the white buffing pad.
  • General Rule #3: You want wax in your base, not on your base.
  • You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board. This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax soaks into the base then bleeds out and lubricates to give speed and protect the base.
  • You are done!
  • The metal scraper and clear/black ptex rods are for base repair. See Ptex Base Repair for instructions and video.

Pre-2017 Kit Instructions: Deluxe Kits (below) | Quality Kits | Basic Kits

RaceWax Deluxe Kits
Take a quick look at the Deluxe Ski Kit Overview Video - Tuning in Two Minutes! Or jump to written instructions.



Deluxe Snowboard Kit and Tuning Overview and Use

  • Edge Bevel Multi Tool with metal file (SKU RB-3503) for a precise edge angle from 0 degree to 5 degrees in 0.5 degree increments -- use to set/establish angles for boards and skis;
  • Blue DMT Diamond Stone -- use to routinely sharpen by placing in the edge tool instead of the file because frequent use of the file will wear down your edges;
  • 40 g bar of All Temperature Ski Wax -- rated for all conditions;
  • Wax Scraper -- for scraping excess wax off you ski or board, one corner is notched to remove wax from edges;
  • Metal Scraper -- to scrape/plane ptex dripped on to repair base gouges;
  • Full-Size Gummi Stone -- a rubber block with embedded grit for edge rust removal, detuning, and burr removal;
  • Large Edge Stone (gray) -- for removal/repair of edge damage;
  • File Cleaning Brush -- used to keep files free of metal waste;
  • Clear P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in colored areas of base;
  • Black P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in black areas of base;
  • One pair (two) plastic hook brake retainers -- holds ski brake during edge tuning (not needed for snowboards);
  • all in a zippered Cordura pouch with lots of storage pockets.
Multi-Angle Ski and Snowboard Edge Tuner


ski base edge bevel ski side edge bevel

Deluxe Kit Quick Start Instructions

  • Advanced tuners should refer to more expanded discussions in topic-specific sections of the Learning Center (e.g., Edge Tuning).
  • Apply brake retainers to hold brakes away from the work area. Snowboards do not have brakes.
  • First prepare your edges. Examine them for roughness or nicks; use the pocket stone to remove these imperfections.
  • If you don't know what angle your ski/board is set at before you start, mark the metal edge with a sharpie, start the tool at the lowest angle and see if it removes the marking on your edge. If not, increase the angle and repeat until it removes the mark; that is your bevel angle.
  • Base Edge. Mount the ski flat. The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to engage a turn on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. Most base bevels are set to 1.0 degrees. With a new pair of skis the non-race skier may wish to start with a 0.5 degree bevel, and if your edges are locking in to a turn too soon, you can move up to 0.75 or 1 degree. To go back to a lower bevel angle you have to resurface the base, so start with smaller angles and increase as needed. Once the base edge bevel is set, maintain (and racers should polish) it as long as possible using diamond, ceramic and gummi stones.
  • General Rule #1: Base Edge - Set it and forget it. Do not overwork the base edge. If you increase it above the intended angle, the only way to reset the bevel back to a lower angle is to do a base grind. Any minor roughness can be removed with fine diamonds; avoid filing unless you are resetting the bevel angle.
  • Side Edge. Mount the ski vertically at 90 degrees. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. Higher angles should be reserved for experienced racers; if the angle is too high the ski can 'rail out' on a less experienced racer or light-weight skier. Typical angles are 1.0 to 3.0 (89 to 87) degrees. Less angle equals less grip. But an aggressive edge (high angle), may be more difficult for lighter racers to recover from being up on the edge. Most start at 89/1 degree and transition to 88/2 with skills. Advanced skiers, especially those skiing on icy hard-packed snow, should select an 87/3 degree side bevel.
  • After you set your edge angle bevels, substitute the blue DMT diamond stone for the file and go over the edges one more time to polish them. Read the section on Diamond Stone Care; the stone should be used wet.
    • You don't need to use the file again unless you change the angle or have edge damage. The stone will sharpen without severe metal removal. Sharpen your edges on a weekly basis by using the diamond stone on your side edge only. To repair severe edge damage you may need a gray DMT or black Moonflex diamond stone.
  • After setting the side edge run the gummi stone (grey rubber block with grit) down the edge (holding at a 45 degree angle) from tip to tail very lightly with no pressure to remove hanging burrs left by files/stones.
  • General Rule #2: Side Edge - Routine sharpening is achieved from the side edge only. As stated in Rule #1, don't touch the base edge unless it is necessary. Here as well, it is not necessary to repeatedly file your edges to sharpen, removing metal each time in the process. All it takes is 5 minutes to routinely sharpen with diamond stones followed by burr removal with a gummi stone and you're done. If at some point you feel to re-establish the edge, use a fine cut file.
  • I like to record the angle settings so I remember next time I tune; I usually write it in the under-the-foot area.
  • For a detailed discussion on this with pictures refer to Edge Tuning.
  • Now add wax!
  • Always start with the ski at room temperature; never start with a cold ski.
  • If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax. See the Wax Charts for a good starting point.
  • Wax each ski for about 3 minutes.
  • Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly is best, do not put skis in the cold). Scrape off wax with wax scraper (this may take multiple passes) and use the notch in the scraper to remove wax from the edges completely.
  • If you have one, brush off excess wax from the base (a nylon will be fine to remove most wax from the structure or pattern in your base, a horsehair brush is for polishing). If not, just make sure base is well scraped in the previous step.
  • General Rule #3: You want wax in your base, not on your base.
  • You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board. This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax soaks into the base then bleeds out and lubricates to give speed and protect the base.
  • If you are adding a second wax coat of fluoro speed wax, repeat the waxing process, but use the crayon method to apply (read about this in Wax Application). Otherwise, you are done!
  • The metal scraper and clear/black ptex rods are for base repair. See Ptex Base Repair for instructions and video.
RaceWax Quality Kit Overview and Use


Quality Snowboard Kit Overview and Use

  • Pocket II Racing Base & Edge Beveler for 88 / 89 side and 89 degree base edge angles with metal file -- use to set/establish angles for boards and skis;
  • Blue DMT Diamond Stone -- use to routinely sharpen by placing in the edge tool instead of the file because frequent use of the file will wear down your edges;
  • 40 g bar of All Temperature Ski Wax -- rated for all conditions;
  • Wax Scraper -- for scraping excess wax off you ski or board, one corner is notched to remove wax from edges;
  • Metal Scraper -- to scrape/plane ptex dripped on to repair base gouges;
  • Full-Size Gummi Stone -- for edge rust removal, detuning, and burr removal;
  • Large Edge Stone (gray) -- for removal/repair of edge damage;
  • File Cleaning Brush -- used to keep files free of metal waste;
  • Clear P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in colored areas of base;
  • Black P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in black areas of base;
  • One pair (two) brake retainers -- holds ski brake during edge tuning (not needed for snowboards);
  • all in a zippered Cordura pouch with lots of storage pockets.

Quality Kit Quick Start Instructions

  • Advanced tuners should refer to more expanded discussions in topic-specific sections of the Learning Center (e.g., Edge Tuning).
  • Apply brake retainers to hold brakes away from the work area. Snowboards do not have brakes.
  • First prepare your edges. Examine them for roughness or nicks; use the pocket stone to remove these imperfections.
  • Base Edge. Mount the ski flat. The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to engage a turn on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. Most base bevels are set to 1.0 degrees and this is the setting for the edge tool (Pocket-II (RB-3607)) in this kit.
  • General Rule #1: Base Edge - Set it and forget it. Do not overwork the base edge. If you increase it above the intended angle, the only way to reset the bevel back to a lower angle is to do a base grind. Any minor roughness can be removed with fine diamonds; avoid filing unless you are resetting the bevel angle.
  • Side Edge. Mount the ski vertically at 90 degrees. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. Most commonly, angles are 1.0 or 2.0 (89 or 88) degrees. Less angle equals less grip. Most start at 89/1 degree and transition to 88/2 with skills.
  • After you set your edge angle bevels, substitute the blue DMT diamond stone for the file and go over the edges one more time to polish them. Read the section on Diamond Stone Care; the stone should be used wet.
    • You don't need to use the file again unless you change the angle or have edge damage. The stone will sharpen without severe metal removal. Sharpen your edges on a weekly basis by using the diamond stone on your side edge only. To repair severe edge damage you may need a gray DMT or black Moonflex diamond stone.
  • After setting the side edge, run the gummi stone (grey rubber block with grit) down the edge (holding at a 45 degree angle) from tip to tail very lightly with no pressure to remove hanging burrs left by files/stones.
  • General Rule #2: Side Edge - Routine sharpening is achieved from the side edge only. As stated in Rule #1, don't touch the base edge unless it is necessary. Here as well, it is not necessary to repeatedly file your edges to sharpen, removing metal each time in the process. All it takes is 5 minutes to routinely sharpen with diamond stones followed by burr removal with a gummi stone and you're done. If at some point you feel to re-establish the edge, use a fine cut file.
  • I like to record the angle settings so I remember next time I tune; I usually write it in the under-the-foot area.
  • For a detailed discussion on this with pictures refer to Edge Tuning.
  • Now add wax!
  • Always start with the ski at room temperature; never start with a cold ski.
  • If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax. See the Wax Charts for a good starting point.
  • Wax each ski for about 3 minutes.
  • Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly is best, do not put skis in the cold). Scrape off wax with wax scraper (this may take multiple passes) and use the notch in the scraper to remove wax from the edges completely.
  • If you have one, brush off excess wax from the base (a nylon will be fine to remove most wax from the structure or pattern in your base, a horsehair brush is for polishing). If not, just make sure base is well scraped in the previous step.
  • General Rule #3: You want wax in your base, not on your base.
  • You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board. This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax soaks into the base then bleeds out and lubricates to give speed and protect the base.
  • If you are adding a second wax coat of fluoro speed wax, repeat the waxing process, but use the crayon method to apply (read about this in Wax Application). Otherwise, you are done!
  • The metal scraper and clear/black ptex rods are for base repair. See Ptex Base Repair for instructions and video.
RaceWax Basic Ski Tuning Kit, Overview and Use


Basic Snowboard Kit Overview and Use

  • Edge Beveler for 88 / 90 side edge angles -- use to set/establish angles for boards and skis;
  • 40 g bar of All Temperature Wax -- rated for all conditions;
  • 5 inch Wax Scraper (color may be different than shown) -- for scraping excess wax off you ski or board, one corner is notched to remove wax from edges;
  • Large Edge Stone -- for removal/repair of edge damage;
  • Metal Scraper -- to scrape/plane ptex dripped on to repair base gouges;
  • Clear P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in colored areas of base;
  • Black P-Tex rod -- drip into gouges in your base to repair it, for use in black areas of base;
  • Brake Retainer -- holds ski brake during edge tuning (not needed for snowboards);
  • Non-abrasive Fibertex pad for buffing after scraping wax -- if you don't have a brush, this pad will do the job;
  • all in a zippered Cordura pouch with lots of storage pockets.

Basic Kit Quick Start Instructions

  • Apply brake retainers to hold brakes away from the work area. Snowboards do not have brakes.
  • First prepare your edges.
  • Base Edge. Mount the ski flat. Examine the base edge for roughness or nicks; use the pocket stone to remove these imperfections.
  • General Rule #1: Base Edge - Set it and forget it. Do not overwork the base edge. If you increase it above the intended angle, the only way to reset the bevel back to a lower angle is to do a base grind. Any minor roughness can be removed with a stone; avoid filing.
  • Side Edge. Mount the ski vertically at 90 degrees. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. The most common angle is 2.0 (or 88) degrees. Less angle equals less grip. We recommend the 88 over the 90 degrees for this reason.
  • After setting the side edge, run the pocket stone down the base edge (holding the length of the stone parallel to the length of the ski edge) from tip to tail SUPER light with no pressure to remove hanging burrs left by filing the side edge in the step above.
  • General Rule #2: Side Edge - Routine sharpening is achieved from the side edge only. As stated in Rule #1, don't touch the base edge unless it is necessary.
  • Now add wax!
  • Always start with the ski at room temperature; never start with a cold ski.
  • If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax. See the Wax Charts for a good starting point.
  • Wax each ski for about 3 minutes.
  • Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly is best, do not put skis in the cold). Scrape off wax with wax scraper (this may take multiple passes) and use the notch in the scraper to remove wax from the edges completely.
  • Brush off excess wax from the base with the white buffing pad.
  • General Rule #3: You want wax in your base, not on your base.
  • You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board. This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax soaks into the base then bleeds out and lubricates to give speed and protect the base.
  • You are done!
  • The metal scraper and clear/black ptex rods are for base repair. See Ptex Base Repair for instructions and video.

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